
The term " American-made" holds little allure for those who have learned to regard
Switzerland as the sole source of fine mechanical watches. Yet the quality and design
of American timepieces once rivaled anything manufactured in Switzerland. That was
before the Swiss all but extinguished the U.S. industry following World War II,
RGM is located in Lancaster County, once the home of the Hamilton watch Co. ,
one of the most prestigious American watchmakers before declining after
World War II. ( Hamilton now makes inexpensive watches with Swiss-made
movements. ) Murphy utilized some vintage Hamilton movements and dials for a
Limited number of wristwatches that exhibit a Classic design and distinctive
hands introducing the RGM Signature Series ( RGM Model 222 ) . The new
collection's dials and decorative elements , including the engraving pattern on
the movements, are combined in different ways, making each watch unique. While
the railroad collection is not considered a Limited Series, Murphy expects only
to produce a few hundred pieces, because of the availability of parts.
Railroad watches represent the zenith of American watch making. Built to satisfy
the heightened accuracy specifications of the railroads, they were produced
with greater care and precision than the average pocket watches of the time.
These standards, some of which were initiated after a horrific 1891 Ohio Train
wreck that was blamed on a slow watch, evolved over time. "The Railroads
demanded a high level of accuracy," explains Carter Harris , curator of the
National Watch & Clock Museum. "These timepieces had more jewels [ bearings ]
and wereadjusted more precisely than average watches." Railroad watches were
large, and the efficiency of their oversize balance wheel assemblies helped
them achieve superior accuracy. Some of the best-known American brands -
including Waltham, Elgin, and Hamilton - later used the railroad watch
designation for marketing purposes.
In the late 19th century, railroad watches were the envy of even Swiss
watchmakers for their keen precision and the production techniques that they
represented. The U.S. companies making these watches were the first to employ
the then-advanced machine tools to produce standardized parts - a classic, if
little known, example of American industrial ingenuity. In contrast, the Swiss
were making their components one at a time by hand.
when they began producing pieces that were more reliable and more complicated
than those of the Americans. Pieces from the heyday of American watchmaking can
be found in the collections of a small group of hard-core enthusiasts and in
museums such as the National Watch & Clock Museum in Columbia, Pa.. a stones
throw from the Headquarters of the RGMwatch Co. The finest examples from this
era are the so-called railroad watches , a distinctly American genre of pocket
watches produced during the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The watches
were designed for railroad employees, includingstation masters and switch
oprators who needed extremely accurate timepieces, and were later marketed to
the public at large.
"I have always loved Railroad watches" says Roland G. Murphy, founder of the RGM
Watch Co., a small Pennsylvania manufacturer that may be the only current
American brand offering Swiss-comparable quality in its watches. "They have
great style and romance, and from a watchmaking perspective, they represent a
level of quality construction that is sometimes hard to find in Swiss watches".
At RGM, Swiss watchmakingtradition pervades almost every aspect of the
collection, from the finishing of the movements to the engine turning and
detailing on the dials. Murphy, a Maryland native whose initials form the
company's name, is a Swisstrained watchmaker who spent several years working as
a product manager for SMH ( now the Swatch Group ). His watchmaking philosophy
mixes old-fashioned handcrafts, such as guilloche engraving, with the Swiss
industry's modern movement technology. RGM's four watchmakers annually complete
only about 400 pieces, including a number of complications. The manufacturer
typically purchases Swiss movements, and its watchmakers disassemble them,
finish the components by hand, heavily modify many of the parts, making each a
company exclusive collection, bearing his own name, based on historic railroad
watches.
RGM's railroad-style wristwatches ( RGM Model 222 ) , however , do not
incorporate actual railroad-grade movements established by individual railroads
and later codified and enforced by the American Railway Association. The
diameter of the smallest approved railroad movement, the 16-size ( a reference
to the old American watchmaking measurement system ) , is about 42.0 mm ,
mailing it too large and impractical for use in a modern wristwatch. Instead,
Murphy has employed Hamilton's less popular 10-size movement, which was
produced from the late 1930's through the early 60's. Murphy's source for these
uncommon movement is his personal collection of pocket watches. Although they
are smaller than those of actual rail-road grade pocket watches, the
movements have the same technical characteristics and sweeping bridges of
their larger cousins.
While the railroad collection's movement and designs are American, RGM will
produce them using traditional Swiss methods. Murphy's team assembles the
complete movement and then applies circular grained perlage engraving, anglage
beveling, and other treatments to the surfaces and edges. RGM also plans to
enhance some pieces further by adding elaborate engine-turning and hand
engraving, as it does for the dials and Swiss movements of its other models.
Some clients, however, share Murphy's love of the original watches and prefer
to preserve the simple character of those pieces that set the global quality
standard of their time. "Features that were considered normal then are now
found only in the very highest-quality movements," says Murphy. "I can take
a 60 year old Hamilton 10 size, and with a little work, it runs beautifully."
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