Engine turning is the act of cutting geometric patterns in a rotating metal surface with a stationary cutting tool called a rose engine. A similar type of engraving can be done with a straight-line engine, which is used for such patterns as Geneva stripes. The application of guilloché is a delicate process. The craftsman (guillocheur) must mount the piece to be decorated on his machine and ensure that all components are properly aligned. Then, the intricate pattern is carved into the metal line by line (or, in engine turning terms, thread by thread). The engraver must be careful not to carve too deeply, and careful to apply consistent force for each thread-though this process involves machinery, the artistry and technique of the guillocheur are of great importance.

This complex machine consists of many intricate parts including wheels, pulleys and rosettes, the heart of the engine. Many, many rosettes are available to the guillocheur-they represent his repertoire of patterns, of which more than one is often be used to decorate a single watch.
SEE: PATTERN EXAMPLES.

These classic machines, which were run by hand, are no longer produced. The last machines were manufactured around 1948-1949. Most of the machines used today to do this type of work were made between 1850 and 1948. Figure 1 shows a typical rose engine used for revolving work. The hand cranked, belt-driven headstock spindle revolves in the headstock frame, which is supported in the bed at two pivot points( Figs 1 and 2 ) {A}. The rose barrel {B} is fitted loosely to the spindle and locked by the pawl {C}attached to the spindle pulley and engaging the locking plate {D} of the rose barrel. The headstock frame is pushed towards the touch piece {E} by the spring {F} so that the selected rose or rosette rests upon the tip of the touch piece. As the spindle revolves, it rocks from side to side as the touch piece follows the shape of the rose as it turns. The cutting tool is held in a slide rest that is stationary and held by hand against the work as this takes place.

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Rose engines for cutting guilloché have not been manufactured in over fifty years. Being an old and evolutionary art, there are earlier examples of guilloché on watches, including the famous dials and cases found adorning watches by A-L Breguet. Today, true guilloché is a luxury found mostly on high-grade timepieces. Because there are few available operating rose engines and fewer master guillocheurs practicing the art, such decoration is either not available or not within the budget of most firms who produce watches. It is an exclusive feature of fine watches.

RGM is one of the watch companies that is working toward the promotion and growth of this art. It would be easier to create their dials, as many other notable firms do, by stamping them from a form based upon a guilloché pattern, but this does not conform to the philosophy of watchmaking at RGM. It is a point of honor at RGM that they design and assemble their watches entirely in-house…similarly they refuse to cut corners when it comes to other important elements, including the distinctive textured dials. For some time now, RGM has exclusively utilized authentic guilloché on watches such as the William Penn and Classic lines. Though the process of cutting a single dial can take an expert craftsman up to three hours, there is no substitute for the beauty and elegance of hand-cut guilloché.

RGM has been actively involved in keeping alive this old-world craft by working with guilloché masters on two continents. Though it is a craft mainly associated with traditional centers of fine watchmaking and jewelry (Switzerland & Germany) guilloché has also been practiced in the USA and this is yet another American watchmaking tradition that RGM seeks to keep alive. They continue to rely on the master engravers who have served them so well to date, but RGM is also producing guilloché in their Pennsylvania workshop. Some antique engraving machines made by the venerable Swiss firm of Lienhard have been a feature of the RGM premises since the company moved into their current building in Mount Joy. Though they are striking and elegant, these machines are not simply attractive relics-both Roland Murphy and his chief designer have been working hard on these engines honing their skills as guillocheurs. Examples of their work include rotors for automatic watches, patterns for dials, case backs and movements. A noteworthy off-shoot of this endeavor is the pure enjoyment of the process of learning and creating-the budding RGM guillocheurs are excited about this new facet of their business and the possibilities it suggests.

These possibilities, with respect to the creation of distinctive timepieces, seem limitless to the RGM team. Their dedication to pursuing the craft of guilloché in-house and their continued support of the master engravers they have previously relied upon means that you are likely to see many more stunning watches in the RGM product line. The options available for the creation of unique, custom watches are also staggering.

Clearly RGM is dedicated to providing the best watches they can-true connoisseurs have long appreciated this-and it is remarkable that RGM will now be creating guilloché in their Mount Joy atelier. In addition to being at the forefront of modern American watchmaking, they are also actively working to keep more obscure, traditional crafts alive. Perhaps no other watch company in the world can offer timepieces that have been designed, assembled and decorated with guilloché by the same hand.



RGM ENGINE TURNING FORUM

RGM
801 West Main St.
Mount Joy, Pa 17552 USA
ph. 717 - 653 - 9799     fax. 717 - 653 -9770
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